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[title] => Danci ‘otkinuli‘ na naše šparoge i gradele, Splićanima otkrili čari svoje kuhinje: biste li kušali tortu od piva?
[alias] => danci-otkinuli-na-nase-sparoge-i-gradele-splicanima-otkrili-cari-svoje-kuhinje-biste-li-kusali-tortu-od-piva
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Svima nam je u većoj ili manjoj mjeri poznato kakvog su okusa jela iz talijanske, francuske, marokanske i kineske kuhinje, no malo će vam tko, osim ako baš potrefite pravog poznavatelja, znati reći što se kuha i jede u Danskoj. Osim možda da se tamo peku kolači koji su u ostatku svijeta poznati kao "danci". Što je zapravo pomalo neobično jer Danska je u gastronomskom smislu vrlo zanimljiva – puna je restorana s vrhunskim ocjenama, od kojih je, dakako, najpoznatiji "Noma", ovjenčan s čak tri Michelinove zvjezdice.
No, ima tome koji dan, jedna je grupica Splićana dobila priliku iz prve ruke doznati kakva je danska spiza, i to u restoranu "Makarun", gdje otprije nekoliko tjedana traje vrlo zanimljiv program, možda bolje reći projekt "Dalmatia meets the World".
---
---
Već smo vam pisali kako je bilo kad je Dalmacija preko chefa Veleposlanstva Republike Koreje Cheolhuija Leeja upoznala Koreju, a ovaj put gostovanje su odradili chefovi Simon Clemens i Henrik Elkir. Uz splitski restoran, u organizaciji je sudjelovalo Veleposlanstvo Kraljevine Danske, a na večeri su kao posebni gosti bili veleposlanik Ole Frijs Madsen i počasni konzul Žarko Dešković.
Kuhari su stigli u Split nekoliko dana prije te su se uz pomoć kolege Bože Vugdelije upoznali s našom gastronomskom tradicijom, a večera koju su priredili u suradnji s domaćinom spojila je tradicionalna dalmatinska jela s onima iz Danske – sve u skladu s načelom da se prednost daje lokalnom, svježem i sezonskom, naravno.
---
---
Jelovnik za večeru od sedam sljedova, čija je priprema trajala čak tri dana, kreiran je uz korištenje jela i namirnica tipičnih za naše podneblje, poput pršuta, ručno izrađenih makaruna i jadranske ribe, te jela i namirnica omiljenih u Danskoj, primjerice sourdough kruha s krumpirom, ribe s hollandaise umakom i piva – a ovo posljednje je, vjerovali ili ne, završilo u torti.
I kako je to sve zapravo izgledalo, kako se ljube dalmatinska i danska spiza? Odlično! Chefovi su radili od jutra do mraka kako bi sve bilo savršeno, a nakon što je sve bilo privedeno kraju, otkrili su nam da im je kuhanje na ovoj štaciji bilo veliki užitak.
---
---
– Baš smo guštali pripremajući jela za ovu večeru jer su nam bile dostupne brojne svježe namirnice, osobito povrće. Sve je mnogo lakše uz tako kvalitetne namirnice. Prije dolaska imali smo želju koristiti namirnice koje su slične onima koje imamo kod kuće, ali koje su po nečemu bolje od njih. Tako smo otkrili vaše suhomesnate proizvode, a osobito nas je oduševio pršut – otkrili su chefovi Simon i Henrik, a priznali su nam i da ih je očarala Dalmacija, njezino blago proljeće, jarko sunce i svježi zrak, ali i – divlje šparoge.
---
---
– One su nam posebno otkriće. Nikada nismo probali takve šparoge, oborile su nas s nogu. Odmah nam je bilo jasno da ih moramo iskoristiti u nekom od sljedova. Bio nam je izazov pronaći način da izvučemo gorčinu iz njih, a rješenje za koje smo se odlučili bilo je poslužiti ih uz komad ribe s malo šećera i hollandaise umakom – rekao nam je uglas danski kulinarski dvojac, napominjući kako im je kombinacija ribe s divljim šparogama najdraža gastronomska kreacija koju su stvorili za ovu prigodu.
Chef Bože Vugdelija, pak, primjećuje kako Danci pri kuhanju koriste izrazito teške namirnice pa ih je pri kreiranju jelovnika bilo izazovno izbalansirati s našima, koje su znatno laganije i svježijeg okusa.
---
---
– Bilo je potrebno pronaći način da okusi ljube jedan drugog, a da ništa ne odskače i da okusi dodatnih namirnica ne nadvladaju okus glavne namirnice. Upravo na tome izgubili smo najviše vremena, po 12 sati smo sjedili i razmišljali kako sve spojiti, te smo isprobali veliki broj verzija dok nismo našli kombinacije kojima smo zadovoljni – kazao je chef Vugdelija, kojega je, kako nam je kazao, osobito oduševilo koliko chefovi Clemens i Elkir cijene namirnice.
– To kako se prema hrani odnose s ljubavlju i poštovanjem nešto je stvarno posebno kod njih dvojice. Uz to su me naučili kako raditi sa živim kvascem, kako proizvesti domaći kvasac i kako održavati taj kvasac na životu. Nevjerojatno mi je koliko mu se treba posvetiti, ali kada su napravili kruh s tim kvascem i kad smo ga probali, osjetila se razlika u odnosu na ono na što smo mi naviknuli, a ako uzmemo u obzir da je taj kvasac star 20 plus godina, onda je zaista vrijedno divljenja – rekao je Vugdelija, te priznao da su mu ostavili dio kvasca i da s njima već ima planove.
---
---
Večera je započela pozdravom iz kuhinje koji se sastojao od dalmatinskog pršuta, majoneze od šparoga, pesta od češnjaka i sourdough kruha. Drugi slijed sastojao se od carpaccia od tikvica nadjevenih paškom skutom. Zatim je uslijedilo tradicionalno dansko jelo, kruh od raži s krumpirom i pancetom, a potom je poslužen dalmatinski slijed – ručno izrađeni makaruni s kozicama i jastogom.
------
Jako dobre reakcije gostiju zaslužio je filet brancina sa šparogama, koje su ubrane tog jutra u okolici Splita i poslužene s hollandaise umakom, a kao šećer na kraju stigla su čak dva deserta.
Jedan od njih bila je torta od piva sa sladoledom, koja je mnoge zatekla okusom, ali i činjenicom da se kombinirala s raženim kruhom, koji je nama sasvim nepoznat kao sastojak deserta. Dalmaciju je zastupala čokoladna torta na tri kata, a poslužena je s kumkvatom iz dvorišta kuće jednog od zaposlenika.
---
---
Sve u svemu, Dalmacija i danska kuhinja ovom su se prigodom vrlo lijepo sljubile, a Splićani su dobili interesantan, doduše našim nepcima prilagođen uvid u kulinarsku tradiciju te sjeverne zemlje. Danski chefovi, pak, osim uspomene na neponovljiv okus dalmatinskih divljih šparoga doma nose još jedno otkriće. U Danskoj, kako su nam rekli, ne poznaju pripremu hrane na gradelama, a riba ispečena na naš način posebno im se svidjela i taj će okus dugo pamtiti.
---
---
– Iz Dalmacije i Splita kući nosimo ljubav prema gradelama. Znamo da je vama to normalno i prirodno, ali miris i okus koji taj način pripreme ostavlja na hrani nevjerojatan je. Svidjelo nam se i to što ne koristite previše začina, nego namirnica ima svoj originalan okus uz potrebne dodatke. U kuhanju je ponekad najbolja jednostavnost – zaključili su danski chefovi.
Na kraju nismo odoljeli zamoliti ih da nam daju recept za neko tipično dansko jelo, a izbor je pao na rødgrød, pravi danski slatki klasik s bobičastim voćem i bogatim vrhnjem koji oduševljava spojem slatkih i kiselih okusa.
---
---
Rødgrød
Sastojci:
600 g bobičastog voća
100 g rabarbare
3 dl vode
125 g šećera
0,50 mahune vanilije
1,50 žlica škrobnog brašna
1 dl hladne vode
1 žlica šećera za posipanje
2 dl slatkog vrhnja
Priprema:
U lonac stavite bobičasto voće, rabarbaru narezanu na kockice, vodu, šećer, srž mahune vanilije i praznu mahunu vanilije. Dobro promiješajte i ostavite da odstoji 30 minuta. Pustite da zavri na srednje jakoj vatri pa smanjite vatru na laganu i kuhajte 3-4 minute. Uklonite pjenu koja se stvori na vrhu.
U hladnoj vodi razmutite škrobno brašno, a potom ga pažljivo umiješajte u smjesu s voćem. Trebate dobiti pomalo tekuću teksturu jer će se desert stisnuti kad se ohladi. Prebacite ga u prikladnu posudu i pospite šećerom.
Ostavite ga u hladnjaku barem tri sata i poslužite s hladnim slatkim vrhnjem, koje po želji možete istući u šlag.
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title=Danci 'otkinuli' na naše šparoge i gradele, Splićanima otkrili čari svoje kuhinje: biste li kušali tortu od piva?
page_title=Danci 'otkinuli' na naše šparoge i gradele, Splićanima otkrili čari svoje kuhinje: biste li kušali tortu od piva?
[metakey] => Simon Clemens i Henrik Elkir, danska kuhinja, makarun
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Svima nam je u većoj ili manjoj mjeri poznato kakvog su okusa jela iz talijanske, francuske, marokanske i kineske kuhinje, no malo će vam tko, osim ako baš potrefite pravog poznavatelja, znati reći što se kuha i jede u Danskoj. Osim možda da se tamo peku kolači koji su u ostatku svijeta poznati kao "danci". Što je zapravo pomalo neobično jer Danska je u gastronomskom smislu vrlo zanimljiva – puna je restorana s vrhunskim ocjenama, od kojih je, dakako, najpoznatiji "Noma", ovjenčan s čak tri Michelinove zvjezdice.
No, ima tome koji dan, jedna je grupica Splićana dobila priliku iz prve ruke doznati kakva je danska spiza, i to u restoranu "Makarun", gdje otprije nekoliko tjedana traje vrlo zanimljiv program, možda bolje reći projekt "Dalmatia meets the World".
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Već smo vam pisali kako je bilo kad je Dalmacija preko chefa Veleposlanstva Republike Koreje Cheolhuija Leeja upoznala Koreju, a ovaj put gostovanje su odradili chefovi Simon Clemens i Henrik Elkir. Uz splitski restoran, u organizaciji je sudjelovalo Veleposlanstvo Kraljevine Danske, a na večeri su kao posebni gosti bili veleposlanik Ole Frijs Madsen i počasni konzul Žarko Dešković.
Kuhari su stigli u Split nekoliko dana prije te su se uz pomoć kolege Bože Vugdelije upoznali s našom gastronomskom tradicijom, a večera koju su priredili u suradnji s domaćinom spojila je tradicionalna dalmatinska jela s onima iz Danske – sve u skladu s načelom da se prednost daje lokalnom, svježem i sezonskom, naravno.
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Jelovnik za večeru od sedam sljedova, čija je priprema trajala čak tri dana, kreiran je uz korištenje jela i namirnica tipičnih za naše podneblje, poput pršuta, ručno izrađenih makaruna i jadranske ribe, te jela i namirnica omiljenih u Danskoj, primjerice sourdough kruha s krumpirom, ribe s hollandaise umakom i piva – a ovo posljednje je, vjerovali ili ne, završilo u torti.
I kako je to sve zapravo izgledalo, kako se ljube dalmatinska i danska spiza? Odlično! Chefovi su radili od jutra do mraka kako bi sve bilo savršeno, a nakon što je sve bilo privedeno kraju, otkrili su nam da im je kuhanje na ovoj štaciji bilo veliki užitak.
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– Baš smo guštali pripremajući jela za ovu večeru jer su nam bile dostupne brojne svježe namirnice, osobito povrće. Sve je mnogo lakše uz tako kvalitetne namirnice. Prije dolaska imali smo želju koristiti namirnice koje su slične onima koje imamo kod kuće, ali koje su po nečemu bolje od njih. Tako smo otkrili vaše suhomesnate proizvode, a osobito nas je oduševio pršut – otkrili su chefovi Simon i Henrik, a priznali su nam i da ih je očarala Dalmacija, njezino blago proljeće, jarko sunce i svježi zrak, ali i – divlje šparoge.
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– One su nam posebno otkriće. Nikada nismo probali takve šparoge, oborile su nas s nogu. Odmah nam je bilo jasno da ih moramo iskoristiti u nekom od sljedova. Bio nam je izazov pronaći način da izvučemo gorčinu iz njih, a rješenje za koje smo se odlučili bilo je poslužiti ih uz komad ribe s malo šećera i hollandaise umakom – rekao nam je uglas danski kulinarski dvojac, napominjući kako im je kombinacija ribe s divljim šparogama najdraža gastronomska kreacija koju su stvorili za ovu prigodu.
Chef Bože Vugdelija, pak, primjećuje kako Danci pri kuhanju koriste izrazito teške namirnice pa ih je pri kreiranju jelovnika bilo izazovno izbalansirati s našima, koje su znatno laganije i svježijeg okusa.
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– Bilo je potrebno pronaći način da okusi ljube jedan drugog, a da ništa ne odskače i da okusi dodatnih namirnica ne nadvladaju okus glavne namirnice. Upravo na tome izgubili smo najviše vremena, po 12 sati smo sjedili i razmišljali kako sve spojiti, te smo isprobali veliki broj verzija dok nismo našli kombinacije kojima smo zadovoljni – kazao je chef Vugdelija, kojega je, kako nam je kazao, osobito oduševilo koliko chefovi Clemens i Elkir cijene namirnice.
– To kako se prema hrani odnose s ljubavlju i poštovanjem nešto je stvarno posebno kod njih dvojice. Uz to su me naučili kako raditi sa živim kvascem, kako proizvesti domaći kvasac i kako održavati taj kvasac na životu. Nevjerojatno mi je koliko mu se treba posvetiti, ali kada su napravili kruh s tim kvascem i kad smo ga probali, osjetila se razlika u odnosu na ono na što smo mi naviknuli, a ako uzmemo u obzir da je taj kvasac star 20 plus godina, onda je zaista vrijedno divljenja – rekao je Vugdelija, te priznao da su mu ostavili dio kvasca i da s njima već ima planove.
---
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Večera je započela pozdravom iz kuhinje koji se sastojao od dalmatinskog pršuta, majoneze od šparoga, pesta od češnjaka i sourdough kruha. Drugi slijed sastojao se od carpaccia od tikvica nadjevenih paškom skutom. Zatim je uslijedilo tradicionalno dansko jelo, kruh od raži s krumpirom i pancetom, a potom je poslužen dalmatinski slijed – ručno izrađeni makaruni s kozicama i jastogom.
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Jako dobre reakcije gostiju zaslužio je filet brancina sa šparogama, koje su ubrane tog jutra u okolici Splita i poslužene s hollandaise umakom, a kao šećer na kraju stigla su čak dva deserta.
Jedan od njih bila je torta od piva sa sladoledom, koja je mnoge zatekla okusom, ali i činjenicom da se kombinirala s raženim kruhom, koji je nama sasvim nepoznat kao sastojak deserta. Dalmaciju je zastupala čokoladna torta na tri kata, a poslužena je s kumkvatom iz dvorišta kuće jednog od zaposlenika.
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Sve u svemu, Dalmacija i danska kuhinja ovom su se prigodom vrlo lijepo sljubile, a Splićani su dobili interesantan, doduše našim nepcima prilagođen uvid u kulinarsku tradiciju te sjeverne zemlje. Danski chefovi, pak, osim uspomene na neponovljiv okus dalmatinskih divljih šparoga doma nose još jedno otkriće. U Danskoj, kako su nam rekli, ne poznaju pripremu hrane na gradelama, a riba ispečena na naš način posebno im se svidjela i taj će okus dugo pamtiti.
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– Iz Dalmacije i Splita kući nosimo ljubav prema gradelama. Znamo da je vama to normalno i prirodno, ali miris i okus koji taj način pripreme ostavlja na hrani nevjerojatan je. Svidjelo nam se i to što ne koristite previše začina, nego namirnica ima svoj originalan okus uz potrebne dodatke. U kuhanju je ponekad najbolja jednostavnost – zaključili su danski chefovi.
Na kraju nismo odoljeli zamoliti ih da nam daju recept za neko tipično dansko jelo, a izbor je pao na rødgrød, pravi danski slatki klasik s bobičastim voćem i bogatim vrhnjem koji oduševljava spojem slatkih i kiselih okusa.
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Rødgrød
Sastojci:
600 g bobičastog voća
100 g rabarbare
3 dl vode
125 g šećera
0,50 mahune vanilije
1,50 žlica škrobnog brašna
1 dl hladne vode
1 žlica šećera za posipanje
2 dl slatkog vrhnja
Priprema:
U lonac stavite bobičasto voće, rabarbaru narezanu na kockice, vodu, šećer, srž mahune vanilije i praznu mahunu vanilije. Dobro promiješajte i ostavite da odstoji 30 minuta. Pustite da zavri na srednje jakoj vatri pa smanjite vatru na laganu i kuhajte 3-4 minute. Uklonite pjenu koja se stvori na vrhu.
U hladnoj vodi razmutite škrobno brašno, a potom ga pažljivo umiješajte u smjesu s voćem. Trebate dobiti pomalo tekuću teksturu jer će se desert stisnuti kad se ohladi. Prebacite ga u prikladnu posudu i pospite šećerom.
Ostavite ga u hladnjaku barem tri sata i poslužite s hladnim slatkim vrhnjem, koje po želji možete istući u šlag.
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Simon, Bože i Henrik osmislili su odličan gastronomski doživljaj
PRIVATNI ALBUM
Kruh napravljen s kvascem starim više od dvadeset godina
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17. svibanj 2024 05:09
